How to change Brake Pads
First, notice that I have a jackstand under the car. Please, for safety's sake, always use jackstands because you will be pushing and shoving some.
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On the 1994 Concorde I'm working on, it has the Kelsey-Hayes two pin calipers.
I'm pointing at the wear indicator. If your brakes squeal with your foot off the brakes... You need to replace the pads because this little piece of metal is rubbing on the disk. Just to let you know you are on borrowed time.
And yes, brake work CAN be dirty...
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a Chrysler tech, recommends leaving the inboard pad in the caliper while using a C-clamp to compress the pison - this exerts even pressure on the entire piston face, rather than on points of it.
Not all pads require you to pry a clip off first, and some use funky springs to hold the pads in place in the caliper. Anyway, be careful when prying, would hate to get a screwdriver through the hand... Anyway, once the clip is free, pull the pad away.
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The inside pad pulls out from the piston with its own clips. Pull it right out and then you are ready to start putting the new pads in.
Before the new pads go in, now is a good time to check the surface of the rotor for problems and gouges. If you have had metal to metal contact, I'd take the rotors to a shop to get turned. Watch minimum thickness...
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Now that the old pads are out, you need to push the piston back into the caliper. You ARE NOT going to push it in by hand. There ARE special expensive tools JUST for this purpose.
If you CAREFULLY center a "C" clamp in the piston, and remove the cap from the brake fluid reservoir (wrap a rag around the opening and DON'T let the fluid get on your paint...), and slowly turn the screw until the piston is in the caliper. Then your new pads will fit around the rotor...
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Modern brakes are really good and quiet, but I still like to add the "Blue Goo" disk brake quiet gel. Got into the habit years ago and just don't feel like giving it up. It works, and it might not be needed today, but...
Last chance to check the piston seal for tears and such, because it is time to put everything back together...
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On the driver's side, the BOTTOM of the caliper clips in the knuckle. On the passenger side, the TOP does. Remember I said the same caliper is used for both sides? This is why I say this. OK, the other side kicked my butt until I remembered this little tidbit. See if I forget it again...
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Now, put the bolts back in for the pins and tighten them down. You did remember to check the piston seal for damage? How about the brake line for cracks? Check the piston for cracks? The caliper? After reassembly, another good squirt of brake cleaner on the rotor surface is a good idea. I had a pretty clean rag to start with, but thee is always oils in your hands. Get as much of the stuff off as you can and you should be fine.
Remember to put the cap back on the brake fluid reservoir, and to pump the brakes a few times before setting off down the street. Keep the "Blue Goo" off of the pad material and handle the pad material as little as possible. If you DO touch the pads, use the brake clean to remove oils...
Make sure you have all the bolts tightened down again.
It doesn't take very long to do, even if the rotors were turned by a machine shop. A WHOLE lot easier than old fashioned drum brakes at all four wheels. Yes, I do remember those... Owned a few... Another story for another day.
And finally where to get the best deal on your new brakes.
Save up to 60% off dealer price on your next Bosch Brake Pad purchase. We offer FREE shipping on all Bosch Brake Pad orders over $50
Go get you set of new brakes HERE.
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Thanks to http://www.allpar.com for the pictures.
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